Commercial Restorations

The #1 priority on any job is SAFETY. Before beginning any job you should take time to acquaint yourself with OSHA requirements (Occupational Safety and Health Administration, http://www.OSHA.com).

MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) – MSDS sheets offer important information on chemicals for emergency situations. These sheets are available to you from your dealer, but dealers are not required to give them to you unless you ask. MSDS pages must be present wherever and whenever the chemicals or cleaners are being used or stored. If you have chemicals in the vehicle then the corresponding MSDS sheets must be in the vehicle. The content of the sheets include chemical and safety information.

Chemicals/Cleaners – Chemicals and cleaners that are used in surface restoration should be handled with care. You can never have enough knowledge about them or exercise enough care when handling them. You should always have these items in your arsenal: latex gloves, elbow length gloves, safety goggles and/or a face shield, respirators, protective clothing, safety boots and/or shoes, first aid kit, and an eye wash kit. Always wear full safety gear when transferring chemicals from one container to another. Always transfer chemicals in a safe area where a spill won’t cause harm to the property.

Before using any cleaner, read the directions and make sure that you follow them. Do not mix cleaners together, or make them stronger than suggested, or you may cause damage to the surface or create a hazardous (unsafe) situation. Remember, short exposure to any chemical may not bother you today but continued exposure over time can cause serious health issues.

Choosing cleaners requires knowledge and thought. For a rule of thumb, use an alkaline cleaner (high pH) for all oil-based soils and an acid-based cleaner for all mineral-based soils.

Height – Buildings and homes come in various heights and number of stories. A proper inspection conducted before estimating and again prior to starting work should be conducted to acquaint you with the surroundings of the job. At this time plan how you will perform the job. Ladders should be inspected before use and should be tied off, secured and footed. Footing a ladder is having someone else secure the ladder. Be careful of ladders becoming slippery from cleaners and water. Pay close attention to proper weight ratings listed on the side of ladders.

There is other equipment to use when working with height and safety should be exercised. Some examples are safety harnesses, scaffolding, and lifts. Follow all instructions and take safety lessons where available when using these types of equipment.

Equipment – Make sure to read all manufacturers safety directions when handling equipment. Use equipment for intended uses only. Do not allow sprayers to be stored under pressure. Have a preventive maintenance program set up, not only so that you get longer life out of equipment but to also ensure that all equipment is in safe working order.

Note: Spontaneous combustion is produced by the generation of heat through a chemical reaction of its own elements. For this reason you should never store used rags in a closed area.

Lifting – When lifting heavy equipment and containers, you should bend down and lift with your knees. Many back injuries occur when lifting using arms and backs only. Use ramps to move heavy equipment to and from your vehicle.

Electrical Safety – When dealing with water, electrical safety is a must. Make sure all outlets and electrical lights are covered. Make sure all extension cords are in excellent working order. Do not spray water in the direction of outlets and electrical equipment. Always be aware of overhead power lines and be careful around power meters on the outside of the house.

Housekeeping – Clear the working area of any objects that may become entangled in or cut high pressure lines. Make sure that all exterior windows and doors are shut tight. Make sure that all animals and people are at a safe distance and away from chemicals, high pressure lines and your machine.

The phone is ringing. A customer is calling to get a quote for washing his house. We present a good price, and the job is ours. What do we do next?

Taking this from the first step, we must have answers to some questions before we can start. It is best to call 1 or 2 days prior to the scheduled day to confirm the date and answer any new questions. This is also a great time for any housekeeping issues that may affect the job. The following is a list of questions and recommendations you may want to ask or state:

1) Is the water supply on and accessible?

2) Have you made payment arrangements?

3) Will someone be home?

4) Will the homeowner remove screens as necessary?

5) Will all pets be kept inside that day?

6) Does the customer have any questions?

7) Have we confirmed the appointment and time?

8) Have we discussed weather related issues and rescheduling issues if needed?

9) Has the customer removed anything they feel is valuable from around the house and deck?

NOTE: It is important when cleaning a log cabin (and some other structures) that someone be present or that you have access to the interior. Water can get through to the inside and it helps to have someone first inspect for previous leaks prior to starting the job as well as keep an eye on the job moving forward.

It is now time to load up the truck and go to the job. For some a simple checklist of all items needed comes in handy so as not to forget a needed tool or item for the job. Upon arriving at the job you should knock on the door (in uniform) and introduce yourself. At this time a quick explanation may be in order and again ask if there are any questions. Next, before unloading any equipment, make sure you have a good water supply.

Now it is time to unload the truck and set up equipment. It is very important when setting up and using the equipment that you are paying attention to the landscape and surroundings. You do not want to pull hoses across the property doing damage to flowers, lighting, etc. that can cost you more money to replace than the job pays in profit. Remember you are here to make the property look better, not worse.

At this time we want to move items and protect any lights, plants, breakables, etc. that could be damaged. Connect the pressure washer to the garden hose (if you are using a portable power washer). For those with trailer or enclosed units you will simply pull the hoses out to the structure. For building cleaning it is time to assemble scaffolding, put lifts in place, anchor harnesses, etc, for safety and access to all areas. Depending on how we will be applying chemical we now want to make sure that we are set up and that are cleaning solution is in place. Now connect any wands, extension poles, external injection tools, or other equipment you will be using. Check to make sure everything is in working order.

We now should address any stains that should be scrubbed first. We never want to apply cleaners to dry surfaces so we want to wet the surface first. We should scrub all stains to the best of our ability prior to washing as a whole.

Wet down and cover any plants around the property that may be damaged by the cleaners you will be using. Consider protecting the plants after wetting them so that strong cleaners cannot sit on the leaves and burn them.

Working from the bottom up, apply water to the surface. Next, it is time to apply the cleaning solution to the surface (again from the bottom up) and let it dwell as needed. Dwell time is the amount of time you allow the cleaners and chemical to remain on the surface to work. After the appropriate time has elapsed it is now time to wash the siding. For the cleaning work, you should now work from the top down.

NOTE: The best way to apply cleaners and rinse the surface is to point your gun above the area you are trying to reach. Let the spray fall downward onto the surface instead of shooting directly at it. This will ensure that you don’t force water under the siding and between the joining sections.

House washing can be done by injecting cleaner through your power washer and using moderate pressure to clean. The ideal tool for this is a telescoping wand. More recently contractors have turned to an external injection tool, which allows them to shoot the cleaner on to the surface, let it dwell for 10-15 minutes, and then rinse it off using the external injection tool. The second method is faster, but uses more soap to get the job done. Whether you use the “dwell” method of cleaning or your injector; whether you use the telescoping wand or the external injection tool to wash a building, you will likely want to set up on one corner of the building with the objective of cleaning two sides before you have to move your equipment. The idea will be to apply cleaner to one side, let it dwell for several minutes, and then wash or rinse that side. Moving on to the next side, repeat the process. Then move to the opposite corner and repeat the process all over again.

If you are using an external injection tool, arc the spray a few feet away from the building so that the water/soap is falling down on to the surface.

If you are using a wand or telescoping wand, you should keep it moving at all times in a pendulum type movement and never start or stop the gun directly on the siding.

If you are using a telescoping wand, you should stand a safe distance away and start out approximately 12 inches away from the surface and move closer only as needed. Be careful when getting closer than 6 inches from the surface as you may cause physical damage (depending on the substrate and pressure involved). Most homes can be cleaned between with pressures between 300 – 1000 PSI.

If you need to minimize the pressure and still use the total GPM capacity of your washer there are easy ways to do this. The easiest way is to use the nozzle chart (page 15) and select a larger orifice tip to reduce the PSI. Another way is to use a dual lance wand which will apply chemicals through one tip and allow you to adjust the pressure of the other tip by the handle on the gun. It is important to look at the pressure washer as a large rinsing tool. Obviously there are times when increased pressure and hot water will come in handy but, it is important to allow chemicals and cleaners to do the actual work through proper dwell times. We recommend that you do not use any hot water over 130 degrees. Do not let chemicals and cleaners dry on surfaces.

Ladder use in cleaning of structures is frowned upon when using a pressure washer as this could lead to accidents and falls. Standing on a 24’ ladder and pulling the trigger on a 4000 PSI machine is a scary proposition. Extreme caution should always be exercised when using a ladder and you should have someone “foot” the ladder at all times.

To minimize or eliminate ladder use many contractors use chemical injectors, telescoping wands, external injection tool, or shooter tips to apply chemicals and rinse surfaces.

Chemical injectors allow you to apply cleaners through a special tip (black tip) to surfaces. This tip is used with your washer at a low setting and will shoot a good distance. Telescoping wands are often used in conjunction with this method.

NOTE: Never try to the use a telescoping wand from a ladder.

An external injection tool nozzle injects and proportions soaps, chemicals or liquids at high pressure or low pressure without going through your pump, hose, or gun. The external injection tool projects chemicals or other liquids to vertical heights of 40 feet or more, depending on your pressure washer. It can be used with virtually any pressure washer, hot or cold, from 1000PSI to 6000PSI. You can wash and remove mold, dirt and mildew from houses, buildings, water tanks, silos, roof tops, and high structures without using ladders, scaffolding, or a telescoping wand.

Shooter tips are tips that attach to your regular wand or telescoping wand and shoot chemical and water over 30 feet. These tips have a cone shape at the end of the tip at varying sizes to allow for different ranges.

We now move around the structure until it is completely cleaned. Before breaking down your equipment, you should (if someone is present and available) do a ‘walk around’ with your customer to inspect the job and sign off. You do not want to have to come back for a missed spot since this is very expensive to do.

If you will be washing windows it is at this time you would do so. It is also a nice touch to put back items as they were and do “touch-ups” such as blowing off walkways, raking mulch beds, wiping window sills, etc. as this will separate you from your competition and leave a lasting impression on the customer. Remember you are looking for repeat customers, so do everything to insure that you will be doing the work in years to come.

Each part of the country faces its own specific soil issues and its own “typical” house surface, and area contractors must seek out the best cleaner formula for that particular set of circumstances. Some contractors are looking for something unique, to set themselves apart from competition. Others are looking for the fastest or the cheapest or the easiest to use, etc.

Contractors who do not make the effort to educate themselves almost always default to some combination of bleach and soap because this combination is inexpensive, easy to get, and it works on some basic level.

Our previous discussion about chemical and cleaners has shown you that bleach alone doesn’t clean, and bleach presents some significant risks to the surfaces being cleaned. In Marketing class we discuss that using cleaners like this makes you the same (in your customer’s eyes) as the next guy – which means that price will be the only factor determining who gets the work. That is a losing proposition no matter how you look at it.

Many contractors enhance their work by using packaged cleaners mixed with extra ingredients, creating their own personal house wash mixtures. This could include products like water-soluble waxes (to add a little sparkle to the finished job) and rinse aids (to minimize spotting without the expense of softened or DI water).

There are abundant formulas for house washes that are passed around on the internet and wherever contractors gather. Some of those formulas involve ready-to-use products and some involve mixing raw chemicals yourself. We suggest you avoid the temptation to use raw chemicals. Untrained use of raw chemicals is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. For example, mixing bleach with ammonia creates mustard gas – which can be fatal.

Commercially prepared products are designed for the job and for the operator. Commercially prepared products come with directions, warranties, and product liability insurance coverage for your protection and your customer’s safety. If you use raw chemicals, YOU are liable for any resulting problems – including property damage.

A contractor sometimes thinks of packaged cleaners as expensive. The right way to think about cleaner costs is that the good ones save you time and, therefore, save you money. The difference between home-made products and prepared cleaners is often just pennies per job. Your customer ultimately pays for your cleaners, so treat them to the best overall value and performance you can find. Use products that will minimize any surface damage so that you maximize the income you get to keep.

Manufacturers of house washing tools often offer suggestions for house wash formulas. Many power wash dealers offer recipes as well. Manufacturers of packaged cleaners will often give you ideas on what to mix with their products to get excellent results. We suggest that you try several of these formulas. Once you have experienced them, select the product or combination of products and additives that works best for you in your area.

In this post, we would discuss about chemicals and cleaners that are used by our Commercial Restorations team for house and exterior building cleaning.

Sodium Hypochlorite – Sodium hypochlorite (a.k.a. bleach) is one of the most commonly used chemicals in the world. A solution of sodium hypochlorite is frequently used as a disinfectant and as a bleaching agent. Often it is simply called “bleach”, though other chemicals are sometimes given that name as well.

What are the characteristics of sodium hypochlorite? Sodium hypochlorite is a clear, slightly yellowish solution with a characteristic odor. It has a relative density of 1.1 (5.5% watery solution). As a bleaching agent for domestic use it usually contains 5% sodium hypochlorite (with a pH of around 11, it is irritating). If it is more concentrated, it contains a concentration 10-15% sodium hypochlorite (with a pH of around 13, it burns and is corrosive).

Sodium hypochlorite is unstable. Chlorine evaporates at a rate of 0.75 grams of active chlorine per day from the solution. When heated, sodium hypochlorite disintegrates. This also happens when sodium hypochlorite comes in contact with acids, sunlight, certain metals and poisonous and corrosive gasses (including chlorine gas). Sodium hypochlorite is a strong oxidizer and reacts with flammable compounds and reductors. Bleach affects natural fibers such as cotton and wood adversely.

These characteristics must be kept in mind during transport, storage and use of sodium hypochlorite.

Sodium hypochlorite is used as a disinfectant/mold killer. Sodium hypochlorite produces a residual disinfectant effect.

Sodium hypochlorite can be a dangerous and corrosive substance. While working with sodium hypochlorite, safety measures have to be taken to protect workers and the environment. Care should be taken to minimize the exposure of sodium hypochlorite to air, heat, or sunlight to prevent chemical breakdown.

Detergents – A detergent is a cleansing substance that acts similar to soap but is made from chemical compounds rather than fats and lye. Detergents and soaps are used for cleaning because pure water can’t remove oily, organic soiling. Soap cleans by acting as an emulsifier. Basically, soap allows oil and water to mix so that oily grime can be removed during rinsing. Detergents were developed in response to the shortage of the animal and vegetable fats used to make soap during World War I and World War II. Detergents are primarily surfactants, which could be produced easily from petrochemicals. Surfactants lower the surface tension of water, essentially making it ‘wetter’ so that it is less likely to stick to itself and more likely to interact with oil and grease.

Modern detergents contain more than surfactants. Cleaning products may also contain enzymes to degrade protein-based stains, bleaches to de-color stains and add power to cleaning agents, and blue dyes to counter yellowing.

Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide – Sodium hydroxide, also known as lye or caustic soda, is defined as a strongly alkaline caustic used in manufacturing soap and various sodium compounds. The main uses of sodium hydroxide are in chemical manufacturing (pH control, acid neutralization, off-gas scrubbing and catalyst); pulp and paper manufacturing; in petroleum and natural gas industry (removing acidic contaminants in oil and gas processing); manufacture of soap and detergents and other cleaning products; and cellulosics, such as rayon, cellophane and cellulose ethers; cotton mercerizing and scouring. Its sister chemical, potassium hydroxide, behaves similarly. Other uses include water treatment, food processing, flue-gas scrubbing, mining, glass making, textile processing, refining vegetable oils, rubber reclamation, metal processing, aluminum processing, metal degreasing, adhesive preparations, paint remover, disinfectant, rubber latex stabilizer and stabilization for sodium hypochlorite.

Butyl – Butyl is a water-soluble organic solvent designed to clean and degrease surfaces. For cleaning building exteriors, butyl works well in metropolitan areas where smog, vehicle exhaust, and airborne pollutants like jet fuel are present. Butyl is often used to remove acid-rain streaks on painted surfaces. Butyl alone does not kill mold as effectively as an alkaline cleaner.

Trisodium Phosphate – TSP is the tertiary phosphate of sodium used as a builder in soaps and detergents. For many years, compounds similar to this were used in clothes and dishwashing detergents, until the damage that phosphates caused to the environment was realized. Now, the power of phosphates is limited, but you can still purchase and use it in its purest form, TSP. TSP is a strong caustic used for washing surfaces prior to painting, especially exterior surfaces, because it will etch the existing surface. Liquid bleach is often added to TSP if there is mildew on the surfaces. The TSP and bleach act in concert to both kill the mildew and remove its characteristic stains.

It can damage many metal and painted surfaces, and can stain woods. It is not recommended for use on glass, either, since it will leave a filmy residue.

Oxalic Acid – Oxalic Acid is a toxic colorless crystalline organic acid found in oxalis and other plants; often used as a rust remover. Just hearing the word “acid” sounds ominous, but oxalic acid is easy to use and the safest for the home. In fact it is found in many vegetables including spinach, and rhubarb. Perhaps its best known use is that as a wood bleaching agent. It is toxic if ingested in large doses. Other acid-based cleaners are more effective on removing rust and efflorescence than oxalic.

Hydrochloric Acid – Hydrochloric acid is the proper name for muriatic acid and is a chemical compound. Hydrochloric acid is the aqueous (water-based) solution of hydrogen chloride (HCl) gas. It is a strong acid, the major component of gastric acid and of wide industrial use. A highly corrosive liquid, hydrochloric acid should be handled only with appropriate safety precautions. Hydrochloric acid is a fundamental chemical, and as such it is used for a large number of small-scale applications, such as leather processing, household cleaning, and building construction. Acid-based cleaners are more effective for removing rust and efflorescence than using a straight acid because the surfactant in a cleaner provides “lift” for the soil, enabling you to rinse it away easily.

Surfactants – Surfactants are wetting agents that lower the surface tension of a liquid, allowing easier spreading, and lower the interfacial tension between two liquids. Surfactants constitute the most important group of detergent components. Generally, these are water-soluble surface-active agents comprised of a hydrophobic portion, usually a long alkyl chain, attached to hydrophilic or water solubility enhancing functional groups.

It is important to use a supplier who supports the products he sells and who supports you. There are many reputable suppliers who produce products designed specifically for the work you will be doing. Seek out quality products from quality suppliers, and you will always have the best tools for the job.

Contact us for your house or building cleaning work to get best results.

 

Any task is always made easier with the right tools. At Commercial Restorations exterior building cleaning and house is no different. The right equipment can make the job easier and less time consuming.

Pressure Washer – Most contractors opt for a gas-powered portable pressure washer, cold water, rated at least 4 GPM. Hot water speeds the job up, and can be a worthwhile upgrade. If you go for hot water, limit yourself to 5-6 GPM, as this can be used with a typical hose connection to city water and no large tank is required.

Wands – The wands used with a washer can be very important. Having different length wands can make easy work out of hard to reach places. A short wand is excellent for washing small, closed in spaces. A long wand helps in reducing splashing in difficult areas like the underside of an upper level deck. A dual lance wand can apply chemicals at low pressure and rinse at the same or slightly higher pressure without changing wands or tips. A dual lance wand applies to house washing in that you can use this type of wand to regulate pressure as needed as you move from siding to brick, etc.

Telescoping Wands – Typical telescoping wands telescope from 6’ long to either 18’ or 24’ long, allowing you to reach areas like gable ends without trouble. They are used to apply power-washing agitation to hard-to-reach surfaces. These tools have a wide range in features and cost, from as low as $100 to as high as $500. The lower priced units are generally made of fiberglass and weigh up to 70 pounds or so. The more expensive models are made from aluminum and weigh as little as 17 pounds. Lower priced telescoping wands use plastic twist couplers to hold the wand in the extended position. Without careful handling, these twist couplers can strip out. Higher-end units use cam-lock fittings to hold the wand in an extended position.

The weight factor is very important with a tool like this. Often, contractors use belts to help support the weight of the wand with their hips rather than hold the tool all day with their arms alone.

Telescoping wands are a form of “direct” pressure washing, meaning that you will be washing with pressure on every square inch of surface. Using a tool like this is much less efficient than using soft wash tools like an X-Jet. Washing a house with a telescoping wand usually takes at least twice as much time as soft-washing a house. Nevertheless, a telescoping wand is a useful tool that every contractor whould have in his arsenal.

Tips – There are two factors to consider when selecting the proper tip: the orifice size and the spray angle. The orifice size determines the quantity of water and the pressure you will use. The spray angle determines the pattern of the spray.

Tip sizes are shown two ways. The first is a 4 or 5 digit number. In this method, the first two numbers indicate the angle of spray and the next 2 or 3 numbers indicate the orifice size. A 2505 is a 25º tip with a #5 (or #05) orifice. The other way that tip sizes are identified is by color-coding and by orifice size.

• Red (0°) – The most powerful, not recommended for any house washing.
• Yellow (15°) – Used mostly on masonry.
• Green (25°) – The most commonly used, and is excellent on most surfaces including houses.
• White (40°) – Best used on wood surfaces.
• Black (Chemical Tip) – Mostly used on low pressure to apply chemicals.

These color-coded tips can be bought in various orifice sizes (such as #5, etc.).

To determine the orifice size, use the chart found on the next page. In that chart, you will find that if you have a 3000 PSI pressure washer that puts out 4 gallons per minute, you should use a 4.5 tip size.

Stepping up to a larger size reduces the pressure. Stepping down a size increases the pressure (and reduces the GPM). Never drop below the nozzle size recommended for your machine. This can be dangerous and can damage the machine.

This can all seem like higher math, but the chart makes it simple. Cut out a copy of the chart and pin it to a wall in your shop area. With a highlighter, mark the column under the pressure output of your machine. Now highlight the row with the GPM output of your machine. You will see the orifice size that you should use. A 3000 PSI machine that puts out 4 GPM should use a 4.5 orifice tip size. If you wanted a 25º tip for this 3000 PSI machine, you would buy a 25045 or a Green 4.5.

Surface Cleaners – Surface cleaners were originally designed with flatwork in mind, but several manufacturers have developed versions that are made to be used as wall washers. These are smaller, hand-held units that may have vacuum connections for capturing the used wash water.

Hoses – The best recommendation here is to use non-marking (non-black) hoses. It is helpful to have both 50 and 100-foot lengths. Remember the longer the pressure hose the lower the pressure output. You may lose as much as 30 PSI for every 100 feet of hose. Make sure you have enough GPM to operate, too. One way to test how much water flow you have at the job is to time the filling of a 5-gallon pail. If it takes less than a minute to fill the pail, you have more than 5 GPM available.

Ladders – Make sure your ladders are safe. Check weight ratings and OSHA approval stickers.

Fiberglass ladders are the strongest (and also the heaviest). Aluminum ladders are a risk because of overhead wires.

An assortment of styles and sizes is good to have. A 6 and 10-foot stepladder and 16 and 24-foot extension ladders are all you need for most jobs. Consider using lifts and harnesses as needed for higher areas and safety reasons.

Tarps – It seems you can never have too many of these either. An assortment of tarps is ideal, such as canvas, paper, and rolls of plastic for masking. Remember not to use plastic on plants and vegetation. Be sure that heavy tarps, when placed over landscape plants, have supports to avoid damaging the plants underneath (or breaking them).

Brushes – It is important to have a variety of different type and size brushes. You will need soft bristle brushes for more gentle cleaning like vinyl siding. You will want to have a nylon bristle brush for more aggressive cleaning like masonry. You can get different length handle brushes for different applications. You will also find brushes with threaded ends to fit different size poles and extension poles.

Sprayers and Chemical Applicators – There are many different types and models for chemical applications. Some are not appropriate in certain situations for safety reasons. What one is comfortable with is usually what works best. There are pump-up sprayers, powered sprayers (usually a piston or diaphragm type pump), injectors, etc. that can be used. Proper care and cleaning of this equipment will save you money in the long run. Nothing is more frustrating than a clogged or broken sprayer. When using chemical in a sprayer you should have one sprayer for one use and clearly marked. If you use squirt bottles these also need to be marked with their contents. This is an OSHA requirement.

X-Jet – This is an “external” injection system designed to deliver cleaners to surfaces up to 40’ away. It is referred to as external injection because no cleaner goes through any part of your equipment. Very popular for house washing, but only suitable when used with strong “touchless” style cleaners.

Shooter Tips – Designed to shoot a long stream. Ideal for use with your downstream injector.

Extension Cords – Be sure to have heavy duty extension cords to be able to run the equipment you are using.

Turbo Nozzles – The rotating nozzle gives cleaning impact like a zero degree spray nozzle, but the cleaning width of a fan spray nozzle. This accessory rotates a 0° jet stream in a circular pattern at thousands of RPMs, increasing effective cleaning power by up to 50%. It is a huge time saver and can be very effective in certain situations. These nozzles can cause damage and should be used with caution. Ideal applications include concrete, specifically around curbs and in conjunction with a surface cleaner. This is also an excellent nozzle to use on some masonry surfaces. This nozzle can be used for paint preparation on aluminum or vinyl siding, but a “safe” distance away from the surface is recommended. In this application the turbo nozzle merely cleans a larger area thus saving time. You do not want to use too much pressure to cause damage nor use too much water that may find its way behind the siding causing damage.

Additional Equipment – Job circumstances may require you to use additional equipment such as scaffolding or man-lifts for unusual jobs. It is normal to pass the cost of renting unusual equipment directly to the customer.

TYPICAL EQUIPMENT LIST

1) Pressure Washer

2) Wands

3) Tips

4) Pressure Washing Hoses

5) Garden Hoses

6) Ladders (Assorted)

7) Tarps (Assorted Types and Sizes)

8) Brushes

9) Chemical Sprayer or Applicator

10) Telescoping Wand(s)

11) External injection tool (optional)

12) Buckets (1 gallon and 5 gallon)

13) Extension Cord

14) Gas Can

15) Rags

16) Safety Equipment (Glasses, Respirators, Gloves, Etc.)

17) Basic Tools (Hammer, Punches, Cordless Drill, Etc.)

18) Brooms and Leaf Blower

19) Chemicals

20) Yard Sign

21) Cleaning Products (Window Cleaner, Thinner, Mineral Spirits, Etc.)

22) Surface Cleaner

In our previous blog post about power wash troubleshooting process, we have explained how to troubleshoot problems like algae, mold, mildew, rust stains, bird excrement and artillery fungus. In this post, we would explain some more problems which should be solved for better results.

Acid Rain Stains – Acid rain stains are left behind by mineral laden, polluted rain. When this rain dries on the surface the mineral residue is left behind causing dark-colored drip marks. A good surfactant with a cloth, pad, or soft bristle brush is very effective for cleaning these stains. Do not guarantee any final result to the customer as the outcome will vary depending on how long the stain has been there and the quality of the surface the stains are on. These stains are very prominent on gutters.

There are “touchless” cleaners designed for surfaces like factory-painted gutters. These are usually made with butyl or an alkaline “action chemical” like sodium or potassium hydroxide. These cleaners can be a little tricky to use, but they will usually take off most of these stains without any hand-scrubbing.

Oxidation – Oxidation (chalking) is defined as any chemical reaction that is a combination of a metal with a gas. Oxidation is the transfer of electrons from the metal to the gas. This leaves a chalky residue on the siding that will dull the exterior of the surface. Keeping the surfaces clean will help keep the oxidation from forming. Extreme caution should be used when cleaning oxidized surfaces.

Many times these surfaces will need to be cleaned, primed, and painted to look good again. It is very important to inform the customer prior to cleaning about the potential outcome and to discuss the next course of action.

Cleaning heavily oxidized siding will leave streaks and striping that is very unsightly.

It is recommended to apply the primer and paint as soon after washing as possible to avoid coatings issues.

Efflorescence – Efflorescence is a white crystal like or powdery deposit on masonry materials like brick, concrete, etc. caused by water seeping through the substrate. Water carries mineral salts to the surface where it is deposited as the water evaporates. In many cases efflorescence will stop on its own.

When it needs to be removed an acid-based cleaner is often used. Hydrochloric (muriatic) acid is the common ingredient. It can be extremely harmful to soft tissue and proper safety and caution should be exercised.

First wet the surface and apply a 1 part acid 12 parts water solution to the surface. Agitate as necessary and rinse thoroughly.

Egg Stains – Egg stains are caused by mischievous kids, usually on October 30th. The best way to get rid of these stains is to clean them as soon as they occur. These stains should be treated before washing the entire structure. A simple and quick way to clean egg off most surfaces is to use a solution made up of 50/50 vinegar and warm water. If this does not work then you will need a stronger detergent, and we would recommend trying a butyl-based cleaner or an enzyme-based cleaner. Be careful on some surfaces with some cleaners as you do not want to remove paint or discolor the surface in any way. The results you get with cleaning will depend on how long the stain has aged on the surface. Eggs often will lift the paint off a surface if left on too long.

Spider Webs – Spider webs usually require a pole and/or a rag to remove. Webs usually survive a 3500 PSI blast from a power washer.

Tape Residue – Tape residue is often found on surfaces where signs or decorations were in use. Pressure washing has little effect on these marks. A good citric-based cleaner and a soft cloth are very effective in removing the residue. If there is an extreme amount of tape residue, solvent-based cleaners can be effective for melting the gluey substance.

Caution: use extreme care when using any solvent-based cleaner on any substrate or surface. It can remove paint and/or leave the area appearing worse than when you started.

Tree Sap – Tree sap is a very stubborn stain that would take entirely too much pressure to remove without aid. The best recommendations to use for cleaning sap are raw linseed oil, mineral spirits, turpentine, or automotive bug and tar remover. A stiff scrub brush may help. Once the stains are removed, you should do a cleaning with a detergent and cloth.

 

There are some important things that you need to check before starting power wasshing process. We have listed some of them in this blog and few more would be covered in another blog.

Algae, Mold, and Mildew – Molds are fungi that grow on surfaces and aid in the deterioration of building materials. Mold’s role in the environment is to break down dead organic matter such as leaves and trees. Mold needs water and moisture to grow. Mold reproduces by way of tiny spores that float through the air. For mold and mildew to grow on surfaces they will need a temperature range between 40 degrees and 100 degrees, nutrients, and moisture. Mold and mildew can cause health concerns as well. Molds produce allergens, irritants, and even potentially toxic substances. In some communities a “Certificate of Occupancy” is not granted to a new homeowner until remediation of exterior mold and mildew has occurred. One way to minimize growth is to keep plants and trees away from the exterior surfaces to allow good air flow and to allow the surfaces to dry. Mold and mildew are easiest to clean with a solution that includes a detergent and sodium hypochlorite.

Rust Stains – Rust stains on a house usually come from the water supply. We run into rust stains so often because many homes and businesses have sprinkler systems using water with some iron content. Removing the stain will not remove the problem. The problem can only be remedied by the use of an iron filter. The best recommendation is to use a product containing acid to remove the stain. Avoid using a straight acid, as this attacks the masonry as well as the rust stain without allowing the rust to lift from the surface and wash away. Use an acid-based cleaner instead. Apply the cleaner, allow it to dwell, and then use pressure to agitate the surface and rinse the rust away.

Note: Sodium hypochlorite will often set stains. If you have a rust stain, for example, it is important to remove the rust stain before applying a cleaning solution to the entire structure. This procedure will give you the most optimal result. Always remember to treat all stains first.

Bird Excrement – Stains from bird excrement can be removed with any good cleaner. Depending on the stain, it may also require some agitation to remove. Sometimes bird excrement contains staining elements of nearby berries, and these can be the most difficult to remove.

 Artillery Fungus – Artillery fungus is also often referred to as shotgun fungus. Artillery fungus is a wood decay fungus that is prominent in wood-chip mulch that is used in landscaping.

Sooner or later most of you will run into Artillery Fungus (groupings of little black specks that stick ferociously onto every surface they hit). They appear most often on light-colored house siding, but can also appear on windows, decks, cars, and other surfaces around the house.

The culprit is a fungus that thrives on the decomposition of natural landscape mulches. It grows in sunny, moist areas where there is organic, decaying mulch such as pine straw. The ideal material for this growth is bark mulch.

Sphaerobolus (commonly called either “artillery fungus” or “sphere thrower” fungus) forcibly ejects a peridiole (or speck) from the body of the fungi for a considerable distance. Peridioles can be projected vertically for more than 6 ft and horizontally for over 20 ft. As with most fungi, growth is influenced by temperature, light, and moisture. When temperatures range between 50°F and 68°F and moisture levels are adequate, the fungus produces fruiting bodies. These structures usually form on the material (bark, dung, or decaying plant material) in autumn and spring and are quite small (approximately 1/10 inch in diameter). Because of their size, they are often very difficult to find in the mulch although areas supporting growth of the fungus may appear matted or gray and somewhat bleached in color. As the fruiting structures mature, they usually remain active or “shoot” for approximately 2-3 weeks. Adequate light and moisture are also necessary for ejection or discharge of the peridiole. This process creates enough force (1/10,000 horsepower) to propel the peridioles into the air. This ejection process is phototropic (the peridioles are projected toward the light). The peridioles are typically quite sticky and, since they are forcibly ejected, they readily adhere to objects upon which they make impact. When the peridioles dry, they become very difficult to remove. Unfortunately, Sphaerobolus can be long-lived and peridioles have been found to still be viable for up to 12 years. Peridioles can also be naturally dispersed by wind or over great distances on plant debris, mulch, animal fur, and even animal dung.

Traditional house-washing chemicals aren’t very successful at removing these specks. The only effective method for cleaning these spores off of house surfaces is 1) to get to the spots within three weeks of emergence; and 2) using Artillery Fungus And Spore Remover with high water temperatures and approximately 2,500 PSI (possibly accompanied by scrubbing with a stiff brush).

NOTE: The number of spore spots that can be removed decreases dramatically in proportion to the time it has been adhered to the siding.

Preventing further outbreaks is the best way to deal with this problem. Once the Artillery Fungus has made an appearance, homeowners should completely remove all bark and hardwood mulch from around the home. This includes removing the topsoil from the mulch bed, as the spores can still grow in the soil, and replacing it with non-organic matter, such as decorative stone or rubber mulch products.

Caution during the cleaning process is necessary. Beyond the potential for damaging the surface you are cleaning, scraping the specks off and allowing them to land in a medium such as soil may set the stage for these spores to re-grow and start the cycle all over again.

Wood Siding -Wood siding could be either made of shakes, T1-11, or lap siding. (Wood restoration is covered in another course.) Typically when this siding needs to be cleaned it may need to be restored or painted. It is important when cleaning wood siding to use very low pressure so as not to chip paint or remove a coating from the wood. Wood coatings typically last 5 years or more depending on the coating before a re-application is necessary. Painted surfaces that are properly primed can last significantly longer. In between, the exterior will need to be cleaned and the same rule above applies about pressure and cleaning solution strength. Wood siding is easily scarred, so also be careful about how close you are to the surface. Start out approximately 12 inches from the surface and get closer as necessary. Commercial Restorations provides professional services to commercial, industrial and residential properties in Maryland since last 32 years. 

Stucco – Stucco is a material that is made of an aggregate, a binder, and water. This mixture is then applied to a surface in a wet state and allowed to dry. As it dries it hardens and is often used over concrete, blocks, or steel. Lime is often added to modern stucco to increase permeability and workability. Stucco often has color mixed into it, but always test your cleaning solution in a hidden area since some stucco is painted (which usually calls for a gentler cleaner). Stucco cleaning is quite different from other surfaces. It is rough and highly porous so it will hold dirt and mildew more than other surfaces and it also has a tendency to pull cleaners into the surface making it difficult to rinse. Stucco (unpainted) is a stronger surface than most you will clean, and can be washed with pressures up to 600 PSI. Stucco needs periodic cleaning to remove surface oils and stains from tree sap, insecticides, pollutants and growth from mold and mildew, etc. to prolong the life span of the product as well as to keep it looking nice. This is why more frequent, easier cleanings are recommended. Allowing the surfaces to build up with pollutants, mold, mildew, etc. means more aggressive cleaning which is not as desirable for stucco surfaces.

Stucco surfaces can be tricky because of their sensitive make up. It is important to hand scrub problem areas prior to washing and rinsing the entire structure. This should give you an even, desirable outcome. Scrubbing problem areas after the building has been washed causes those areas to be more pronounced. Some projects require all hand scrubbing and should be evaluated at the time of the proposal. Problem areas on stucco are frequently around window frames and gutters. 

NOTE: Be certain that the stucco surface you are about to clean is real stucco. Usually you can tell real stucco from artificial stucco by simply rapping on it with your knuckles. If the knock produces a hollow sound, it is artificial stucco. Called a number of different names in different parts of the country (such as EIFS or Dryvit) artificial stucco is a skim coat of stucco cement placed over a foam substrate. Imitation stucco is difficult to work on because any excessive pressure will damage it extensively. Additionally, artificial stucco forms surface cracks over time where water under pressure can enter and cause extreme maintenance issues such as mold. To clean artificial stucco, keep your pressure under 600 PSI and use cold, unheated water. Hold sprayer with a fan-tip nozzle at a 45° angle from the wall (not perpendicular) and keep spray tip at least 2′ 0″ from surface. Also, do not use abrasive hard-bristle brushes and do not apply physical force to this delicate surface.

Brick / Masonry – Brick and Stone Façade cleaning is also different from other surfaces, even stucco. Brick, for example, is highly porous and has a tendency to pull cleaners into both the bricks and the mortar. This makes it difficult to rinse completely. Stone surfaces may be very hard or very soft, porous or non-porous. Always test your cleaner and cleaning method in an inconspicuous area before proceeding. Don’t make the common mistake of assuming you can use higher pressure to clean these surfaces. Most brick and all mortar is softer than it appears, and high pressure can etch the surface or even cause pieces to be broken off. These substrates should also be cleaned with low pressure (600-900PSI).

Other Surfaces – All surfaces, painted or otherwise, need periodic cleaning to remove surface oils and stains from tree sap, insecticides, pollutants and growth from mold and mildew, etc. to prolong the life span of the product as well as to keep it looking nice. It is important to evaluate the substrate and know how durable it is. How deteriorated is the surface or coating? Does it need to be hand scrubbed? Will it be able to withstand 1000 PSI or more? Will it require less than 1000PSI? Are there stains that need to be addressed prior to cleaning? These questions not only need to be answered for the estimate to be properly done but, also communicated to anyone else who may be performing the work on that particular structure. It is important that if you are unfamiliar with a substrate or exactly how to clean a structure that you get the answers you need prior to starting the job. “After the fact” is usually too late.

 

The phone rings. A potential customer is calling and asking you for a price to have their building washed.

It is very important for you have a solid sense of the scope of the work to be performed as well as a full understanding what is going to be cleaned and how it should be done. You never want to appear uncertain or unsure of yourself to a customer.

The customer is going to want to know how you are going to clean the exterior as well as many other questions that you will need answers to. The first things we will cover are the types of exteriors and recommendations on how to clean them.

All surfaces are not treated the same way. This is a common mistake of many contractors. Not every exterior gets cleaned with 3000 PSI of water and with no cleaners or chemical solutions. It is also important to know what you are cleaning and how to remove that particular stain or growth. Some cleaners/chemicals will not be effective on one type and very effective on another.

Definition: Substrate The material or substance that is being cleaned

Definition: Surface The finish or coating that is the exposed face of the substrate being cleaned

Definition: Cleaner An “action chemical” combined with appropriate surfactants

Aluminum Siding – Aluminum siding needs periodic cleaning to remove surface oils and stains from tree sap, insecticides, pollutants and growth from mold and mildew, etc. to prolong the life span of the substrate as well as to keep it clean. Aluminum siding does not last forever and typically you will get approximately 20 years before the need to replace or paint the siding. Life spans on aluminum siding (and other types of siding) will depend on maintenance, care, and quality of the product. Aluminum siding can be painted.

Aluminum siding will deteriorate over time and oxidize. That means that the paint will degenerate and become chalky. Aluminum siding is not forgiving and dents and scratches can be difficult to fix or repair.

 There does come a point when the siding has become oxidized enough that the cleaning is merely the first step before painting. A simple test is to run your finger tips across the siding. If the chalkiness comes off on your fingertips this is a job you may not want to do. Keep in mind that if you remove the oxidized layer the surface may appear blotchy. When this occurs the aluminum siding likely has to be painted or replaced. The key to success is to set the customer’s expectations and educate them about the issues and the potential that the siding may need painting. This will help them make an informed decision as to whether or not to move forward with the cleaning. 

There are coatings available other than paint which are designed to renew oxidized surfaces. These are seldom useful for aluminum siding because the siding does not oxidize evenly.

NOTE: This is typically where new contractors make a big mistake. They wash the surface without discussing the possible outcome with the customer. The result is streaks and stripes all over the siding. This makes for an unpleasant conversation and often results in non-payment.

Vinyl Siding – Vinyl siding was introduced in the early 1960’s and is more durable and easier to clean and maintain than aluminum siding. The U.S. Census Bureau statistics show that twice as many homeowners are siding their homes with vinyl siding over any other material. Vinyl siding, in good condition, is probably the most forgiving surface to clean in residential power washing. 

Most vinyl siding is designed with a wood grain texture in order to look like wood which can cause it to hold dust and mildew spores easily. Unlike other siding materials, vinyl is almost impervious to rain, ice, salt and snow. Vinyl siding is commonly sold as a maintenance free product because it won’t rot, dent or scratch under normal conditions. Vinyl siding needs periodic cleaning to remove surface soils and stains from tree sap, insecticides, pollutants, and growth from mold and mildew, and more. Regular cleaning prolongs the life span of the product and keeps it looking nice. Vinyl siding does not last forever and has an approximate 20-year life span. Vinyl siding also will oxidize and become chalky under normal circumstances. Vinyl siding may be cleaned with a soft bristle brush. Long handle brushes are ideal and time saving. A pressure washer may also be used but with strict policies as to not void a manufacturer recommendation or warranty.

Heat – Vinyl siding is affected by (and will usually distort at) temperatures of about 160° to 165°F. If you use hot water, we suggest maintaining the temperature no warmer than 110°. Vinyl siding is combustible and therefore you should use caution to avoid having your hot equipment too near the siding.

NOTE: It is very important for those that use hot water pressure washers to be very careful not to have the burner set to high. A good rule of thumb to follow is: “The least amount of pressure, the weakest chemical solution, and the least amount of heat to get the job done is best!” Do not raise the pressure too high, do not use a chemical solution that is too strong, and do not have the heat setting too high as to cause damage that in most cases can not be repaired.

Stains – You should always inspect the siding prior to cleaning and note with the homeowner any existing stains. Vinyl siding does stain and often has stains from deck sealers and stains, insecticide and herbicide stains, rust stains, etc. that may be issues. Some stains will disappear, some will diminish, and others will not change depending on factors such as what the stains is and how long it has been on the siding. 

Painting – Vinyl siding can be painted. You should consult with the siding manufacturer first, however, since it will often void any existing warranty.

 There are coatings available other than paint which are designed to renew oxidized surfaces. These can be a good solution for oxidized vinyl siding.

Commercial Restorations provides a variety of cleaning services in Maryland D.C area.

In this post we will discuss the exterior cleaning of homes, buildings, and the many different surfaces that make up today’s market and opportunity. (We will not be discussing the cleaning and sealing of log cabins, as they are covered in a separate article.) A home is one of the most important purchases a person makes during their lifetime, and your job is to help maintain the integrity and value of that asset. This creates a market where contract cleaners can offer this as a primary service or an add-on service. 

We include commercial buildings in this article with the intent of discussing most exterior surfaces within 30’ – 40’ of height from the ground. The materials, cleaners and techniques for that type of commercial buildings are similar to those used on homes. This post is not intended to educate on the subject of building restoration for hi-rises or for special surfaces like limestone, marble, and granite. Those surfaces require special cleaners and special techniques, and will be covered in a different article. For commercial buildings there is even a greater need to separate yourself from your competition. This is where “curb appeal” becomes of great importance. Most business owners subscribe to “first impressions” and “perception is fact” theories. 

Many people do not even realize how dirty their home or building is until it is cleaned. It is very personally rewarding for any contractor to take a person’s home or building exterior and make it look like new again. 

Many of the cleaning applications we will discuss can be used on various types of exterior surfaces, including aluminum and vinyl siding, stucco, Dryvit (a.k.a. EIFS or synthetic stucco), brick and masonry, wood and other surfaces. Pressure washers are the main tool used in today’s market and we will discuss the use of a pressure washer at length as well as other methods and best management practices. 

This is why this opportunity has such an open-ended outlook. All buildings and homes are susceptible to mold, mildew, algae growth, rust stains and more. They all are targets for dirt and pollutants. Many homes and buildings will become targets for graffiti and vandalism. With all that is mentioned above it is no wonder we can make a nice income in the exterior home and building cleaning profession. 

Many contractors believe that residential power washing of homes is one of the most profitable fields in power washing. When you consider the time it takes to do the job, the cost of cleaners and the cost of labor it’s easy to see why so many companies start up doing nothing but house washing. 

The opportunities that lie waiting are enormous. One obvious reason is the amount there is to clean in any city or town around the world. It’s a dirty world out there. Another is that this is a relatively “easy-entry” business and one that even some homeowners and company executives will attempt themselves or delegate to in-house employees. This is where the need for “real professionals” becomes so obvious. There are safety issues and proper techniques that should be followed no matter who performs the work. The more you know, the more valuable you are – particularly after an untrained person attempts a job meant for a professional. 

While we discuss the proper techniques in this post for anyone to perform the work we cannot over-emphasize the marketing opportunity for a “true professional” in the exterior home and building cleaning market. It is important for every contractor to have the knowledge in place before going to a property to give an estimate or make a proposal. Please visit commercialrestorations.com to know about all services that we provide.